The Hardwick sits amongst the green hills of Wales in a glow of country wholesomeness and aged beauty. Its interior is leathery, richly textured and plump of cushion. It has an amiable hubbub, but it's spacious and high-ceilinged. Don't be fooled by this bucolic allure, however: the Hardwick's superb chef Stephen Terry trained with Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux Jnr, and plates up south Wales's finest produce in dishes worthy of several kings. Richness is balanced by zinginess and originality and it would be impossible for the greatest of gourmets or gourmands not to feel replete here.
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