The Five Fields looks like a curiously happy union of a gentleman’s club and Habitat. The other diners are quintessential Chelsea and pretty fabulous, darling. But what’s important here is the incredible, magic food. The flavours are like nothing else: beautiful, yet mysterious, you cannot easily identify the specifics of the alchemy that went to produce them, but you can certainly enjoy their effects. Unusual cuts of superb meat, seafood that practically leaps off the plate in freshness, imaginative ideas that work – this place is a profound dining experience, to be savoured and then repeated.